“Williamsburg reminds us of Travestere,” reads Antica Pesa’s website, referring to the locale where the almost century-old Roman osteria recently opened its first outpost in Brooklyn. “For starters Travestere, similar to Williamsburg, is located across a river.” It may seem like a shallow similarity, but geography has contributed much to the slightly rebellious character of both neighborhoods—free-spirited, artistic, and ever evolving. So it was in Williamsburg, and not Manhattan, that brothers Francesco and Simone Panella felt most at home to continue the tradition of four generations of their family restaurant.
Located just off the main drag, Antica Pesa Williamsburg mirrors its sister property in Travestere. The elegant Roman menu includes classic dishes such as seasonal marinated vegetables, stuffed calamaro, spaghetti cacio e pepe, carbonara and amatriciana. The rest, features modern variations of traditional dishes such as Baccalà alla Roman, or Roman Style Cod, but cooked two ways, either with tomatoes and caramelized onions or carrot almond cream. Much like the original establishment in Italy, Antica Pesa Williamsburg dishes are crafted with a focus on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. The fare strikes a balance between patrician dining and home cooking—just don’t expect it to taste like the local Italian-American joint.
While the Travestere location is known for attracting celebrities and the jet-setting crowd, the Williamsburg outpost is decidedly a bit more relaxed. The space is designed by Brooklyn-based BArC Studio and brings local artistry and craft to the restaurant. The modern yet warm space is sectioned into three areas: an entrance that overlooks Berry Street, a bar area featuring a fireplace and relaxation area, and the formal dining room that leads to the open kitchen. The design firm took inspiration from the restaurant name’s literal translation,“old balance,”to compose a space that balanced different textures, materials, and colors. Mod chandeliers hang over masculine brown leather sofas and stately banquettes and the white brick walls offset the dark wood furnishings.
