Utter cosiness.
That sums up my first impression upon entering The Whistledown, a family-owned waterfront hotel in the charming northern Irish town of Warrenpoint.
I had just arrived after catching a very early morning plane from London and an onward bus-ride so sitting on an armchair in my comfortable suite 108, watching strong winds outside churning up waves into a million galloping horses was a welcome delight.
Through spacious windows I gazed contentedly over a palm-tree lined road (yes, palm trees growing in Northern Ireland) and across Carlingford Lough to the rugged Cooley Mountains where legendary giant, Finn McCool, is believed to rest - an image evocative of a wild and ancient Celtic past.
Opened in 1994, this 21-room Victorian style hotel is the pride and joy of local couple, Sarah and Colum McAvoy. The former, a chef by training, and the latter, a former civil servant on tax issues, they purchased a vacant run-down building, completely renovated it, then bought another beside it, thus creating The Whistledown Hotel. Being talented hospitality entrepreneurs, they also own The Bridge Bar in the nearby town of Newry. As for the name Whistledown, in part in derives from a book Sarah once read and in part from the sound of the wind blowing off the sea.
It was by a series of lucky coincidences that I learned about The Whistledown. Firstly, from a Belfast couple in the lobby of a hotel I was staying at in Ballyshannon, Donegal, then a few weeks later in Lisboa at the international Web Summit of all places, after meeting Beth, one of the three daughters of the owners. Staying at the Warrenpoint Hotel was a golden opportunity for me to see a part of Northern Ireland I hadn’t explored much. While born in Belfast, I’d not spent much time in this scenic south-east corner so I enthusiastically accepted the McEvoy family’s kind offer to spend a few days there.
After finding convenient parking roadside immediately opposite the hotel, I walked through a sea-facing terrace/patio that I could imagine filled with lots of visitors enjoying good weather. Inside was an attractive ground-floor bar featuring an eclectic decor, its walls a blend of wood panelling, flower-themed wallpaper and what seemed like indented tin, with a smokey mirror above a wood-fired stove. A wide range of furnishings included padded stools, armchairs and banquette seating. Once being a barman and curious about drink range, I noticed a full shelf of local gins, including one from Mourne Dew Distillery in Warrenpoint itself, Killowen Distillery, a town just up the road in County Down, with a gin flavored with hibiscus and rhubarb, as well as Jawbox Gin from Belfast, Bertha’s Revenge from Ballyvolane House in Cork and Drumshando Gunpowder Gin from The Shed Distillery in Leitrim. The bar’s drinks stock also included poitín (pronounced ‘potcheen’), a traditional liquor often made with cereals, grain, whey, sugar beet, molasses and potatoes.
Illustrating the popularity of this hotel, as I wandered around I noticed an impressive ‘Hall of Fame’ group of photos on the wall, well-known personalities from all walks of life such as theater, films and politics who have been guests here.
As mentioned, one of the highlights of my suite was the splendid waterfront views I enjoyed while sitting on a comfortable armchair, a warm cup of tea on a round wooden table beside me. My suite was also comfortable in many other ways. Furnishings included a spacious bed with a padded silver backboard with standing lamps either side, and a black sofa with colorful, flower-design cushions, a theme extended by wallpaper featuring pink and red roses. There is also a large flat-screen TV, as well as a glass-topped working table along one wall. The room is softly carpeted, an intricate collage of of bright, multi-colored stripes. A free-standing wardrobe offers plentiful space for clothes. There are also tea and coffee making facilities. The bathroom is tiled top to bottom, with both a shower, featuring strong water jets, and a bathtub. Fluffy robes hang behind the door. All rooms are named after legendary Celtic figures such as Ossian, an Irish hero and poet, and Finn, leader of a band of Irish warriors known as the Fianna.
One evening, my companion and I enjoyed dinner at the Finn's Bar & Restaurant, with our table overlooking the sea and mountains. Being so close to the sea but the weather being cold and damp, we decided to select a ‘surf and turf’ combo. Our starters included garlic and choriso prawn pil pil and a delicious soup of cauliflower and blue cheese.
Our mains featured roast turkey and ham, sourced locally, with tasty homemade stuffing. Other starters include smoked salmon, spring rolls and breaded mushrooms while an impressive range of main dishes featured peppered steak, seafood linguini and panang beef curry. As for desserts, how does homemade raspberry and white chocolate roulade, apple, pear and almond crumble or Bailey’s tiramisu with honeycomb ice-cream tickle your taste buds?
The hotel also has Meabh's Lounge, named after the Celtic warrior queen, where breakfast and lunches of soups and sandwiches are served, as well as a popular bistro.
One other outstanding aspect of The Whistledown that should be mentioned is the refreshing friendliness of its staff, all mostly local people, including Éibhleann, Eve and Paul, which makes a stay here all the more enjoyable. It’s no wonder the hotel has maintained strong staff loyalty over the decades and a loyal local clientele, as well as returning guests from farther afield.
Aside from catering for guests on holiday, the hotel also caters for business life, with ample conferences facilities including its Oisin Suite which seats 200 people theatre style, with boardroom capacity for 50 and Lough Cairlinn Suite seating 40 theatre style and 18 boardroom. The hotel also has a private dining room awash with natural light.
In terms of location convenience, The Whistledown offers easy walking access to an array of quaint shops and boutiques in downtown Warrenpoint while the city of Newry is a simple ten-minute drive away. Outdoor enthusiasts will be delighted with the hotel’s proximity to the Fairy Glen, Kilbroney Forest Park and Narnia Trails, as well as hikes in the Mourne Mountains. Families can also indulge in activities at the East Coast Adventure Centre. For a day-trip over water, try the nearby Carlingford Lough Ferry which leaves from Greencastle in county Down to Greenore in county Louth.
For a relaxing breakaway on the Irish coast with warm and friendly personal service, fine-cooked food with a host of cultural and sporting activities nearby, The Whistledown Hotel is a well-considered choice.
