Enoteca Turi has been a southwest London neighbourhood restaurant establishment for nearly 25 years, priding itself on using regional, seasonal ingredients, with a menu that changes around half a dozen times a year. It has undergone some seismic shifts over the course of the past decade, both geographically (upping sticks from Putney to Pimlico in 2016), and in terms of management (Giuseppe and Pamela Turi took well-earned retirement at the end of 2023). The restaurant also boasts a relatively new Head Chef in Giampiero Giuliani, whose impressive culinary CV includes Cipriani in New York and several Michelin-starred kitchens in London, including most recently Locanda Locatelli. With Giuliani’s classical French training and in-depth knowledge of regional Italian cuisine, the menu promises a profusion of traditional, seasonal ingredients with a shot of creativity, but without any fussiness.
Located a stone’s throw from Sloane Square, the restaurant’s sleek yet simple facade leads into a cosy, but by no means cramped ground floor dining room. It is smartly decorated, with a full-length mirror along one wall and gold painted walls. The decor, along with the crisp white linen tablecloths underscores the focus on no-nonsense, comfortable yet elegant dining, and is reminiscent of Italy’s fine dining spots. The restaurant is fairly quiet when my friend A. and I arrive at 7pm, but swiftly fills with what appear to be returning customers, all warmly greeted by the charming maitre d’. The food menu is Italian focussed, with a lightness of touch across well-balanced dishes that make use of luxury ingredients like black truffle.
Wine was always a big part of the business (it’s Enoteca Turi rather than Trattoria Turi, after all) as Giuseppe Turi’s background was as a sommelier trained in the Connaught Hotel, and over his 25-year tenure he lovingly curated Enoteca Turi’s 460-strong wine cellar. It’s little wonder, therefore, that the restaurant offers a fabulous wine list with superb choices from across Italy.
For starters we ordered sardine in saor – sardines with raisins, onions and bread chips, and fresh smoked provola with tomato confit and pinenuts. The sardines were cooked perfectly and robustly flavoured, with elements that were comfortably familiar and wonderfully complementary. The provola is a triumph: the creaminess of the cheese offset by the sweet acidity of the tomatoes, which marvellously cuts through the whole dish.
Next up was baccaia – fillet of cod with white cabbage, anchovies and black garlic for me, and ravioli filled with taleggio, served with grilled figs, black truffle and honey. My cod was superb: impeccably fresh and flaky. The cabbage added a delicious crunch, and the anchovies and black garlic a rich umami smokiness, which was a sublime combination. A. pronounced her ravioli delicious – the sweetness of the honey offset by the tanginess of the cheese and the nuttiness of the black truffle.
At this point, pudding is impossible to resist. The Dolci menu is packed full of tempting delights, including an intriguing-sounding tiramisu al pistachio. I opt for the semifreddo amaretto e rum, which is sublime – easily as good as any I’ve tasted in Italy. My friend A. plumped for crostata di pere – a fantastically crisp tart with confit pear served with mascarpone and vanilla. We enjoyed coffee with delicious hazelnut brownie petit fours – a fabulous end to a sensational meal.
The service throughout is impeccable. The staff are not only extremely knowledgeable about anything that comes to the table, but also highly attentive, without overwhelming.
Enoteca Turi has gone from strength to strength, and is properly ensconced in its new milieu. It is a true neighbourhood gem. The care and respect for each ingredient and its compatibility with the others is apparent. All of the dishes are delicious, but some are truly outstanding.
87 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8PH
020 7730 6336
Head Chef Giampiero Giuliani.
