As is usually the case with Alexander McQueen collections, the label’s Fall presentation for men has us searching for all the right words. Otherworldly, innovative and even dapper, the latest collection by Sarah Burton features looks that ‘50s era ad exec Don Draper may have attempted, with an Alexander McQueen twist, of course. No matter what you want to call it, one thing is for certain: Burton came in with a bang for her debut on the London menswear stage.
Taking inspiration from London’s famed shopping destination for men, Savile Row, Burton created looks that nod to traditional British heritage — and then she put a McQueen spin on them. Handsome suits in a traditional men’s palette of navy, black and charcoal are tailored to a T, complete with classic lapels, slightly cropped trousers, and just a hint of military inspiration. But then some surprising elements make an appearance: pops of crimson red, color-blocked patchwork, and kaleidoscope patterns grace the surface of otherwise classic silhouettes. Even the traditional pinstripe gets a makeover with reconstructed pieces that result in a “fracture” effect.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a McQueen collection without outlandishly-styled models. Plastic-wrapped faces, impeccable hairdos shellacked into place, and layers of foundation makeup result in a theatrical look that can only be compared to a Ken Doll. Regardless, it’s safe to say that Sarah Burton’s presentation left a lasting impression, keeping true to the McQueen name.