When you get picked up in a vintage Rolls Royce Phantom and a man in uniform, you know you are in for a good time. Arriving in style at the Badrutt’s Palace, it’s no cliché to say that I already felt like royalty even before stepping into the enchanted palace. Warm smiles and courteous staff welcomed us with open arms and chaperoned us inside for our first glimpse of Le Grand Hall, the legendary living room and catwalk of St. Moritz. This hotel had me at hello.
After checking into our luxurious suite, complete with personal butler to take care of our every need, was Afternoon Tea. We waited impatiently for freshly baked scones while savoring dainty sandwiches and miniature delights like lemon meringue pie, chocolate brownies, macaroons decorated with a swiss chocolate, crème brûlée, and raspberry and lemon sorbets topped with star fruit. I am not normally a sweet tooth person, but I was converted very, very quickly.
Executive pastry chef Stefan Gerber has been serving Afternoon Tea at the Badrutt’s Palace for over seven years. It’s no surprise then that he is given completely free reign to transform sugar and cream into tiny, magnificent works of art. Served on three tiered silver platters, as much work has gone into the layout of each tier as has gone into the cakes and sandwiches themselves. We saved the scones served with clotted cream, strawberry and apricot jam for later.
Next on the agenda was an afternoon in the Wellness Palace Spa. To access the spa one has to go by lift into a dimly lit cavern then through a corridor, hewn from the rocks on which the hotel was built. There is light at the end of the tunnel, and a beautiful infinity pool ripples from a waterfall that cascades out of the rock formations. The space is surrounded by shimmering floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views of the white Engadin mountain scenery.
Guests can spend some time using the different steam rooms (aroma and salt), the sauna, massage shower, mist and ice room for the full spa experience before jumping into the pool. At the touch of a button, the pool can transform from indoor to outdoor as a screen lifts and the air temperature drops. The contrast of the chilled air, sun on my face and my body immersed in the warm water felt sensational.
By far, the 80-minute Regeneration Vernix facial I experienced afterwards was one of the best I ever had; the results were more or less immediate, making my skin look hydrated and plumper. The treatment is especially designed for sensitive, deficient and stressed skin using a recreated vernix formula that repairs skin damage, accelerates epidermal reconstruction and regeneration. The spa also offers 7-day wellness programs, private and group yoga, meditation and personal training sessions.
I finish my treatment just in time to watch the magical sunset from the balcony in the room, overlooking Lake St. Moritz, which disappears behind an epic panorama of mountains. There’s always a little surprise gift waiting upon return, such as box of chocolates, bottle of wine and before bedtime a hot water bottle. In addition to the view and little extras, the suite features a separate lounge, bedroom, huge dressing room and enormous bathroom.
For our evening dinner we ate at Le Restaurant, which serves French and international cuisine, but there are eight restaurants to choose from. The show of this venue is the live cooking, right at the table. As two vegetarians, we were treated to a creamy truffle and asparagus risotto. We ate breakfast there the next morning as well, as the residence harp player presided over the dining room; a lovely accompaniment to our morning coffee and newspapers.
After breakfast it was time for my private ski lesson organised by the concierge, kitted out in the highest quality sparkling boots and skis from their own cozy shop. Being only my second time on the slopes, I was eager to learn from the best. As a beginner this meant heading straight to the kiddie area for a few rounds. The most difficult part is learning the new trick of how to get on the rope that pulls you up the slopes!
Back in the U.K., I had gently prepared myself by having a couple of lessons on the dry slopes at Chel-Ski—I highly recommend this for complete newbies, as even learning to put the boots and take them off is a skill.
My instructor was patient and spent two hours with me, guiding me down the slopes, teaching me how to turn, take sharp bends and snow plough so I don’t fall off the edge of the mountain. After two hours I am done in and dreaming of being back in the spa again.
I stayed at the Badrutt’s Palace with a guest photographer and our experience, in summary, was in the words of Mary Poppins, ”practically perfect in every way.” Extraordinary, palatial Swiss hospitality is what the staff at the Badrutt’s do best and pride themselves on, and all without an air of pretentiousness. Many employees have been working at Badrutt’s Palace for over 20 years and recognize their regular guests by their names and 70% guests are returning ones.
Begin your fairy tale to the Palace by travelling by train – which takes you through the snowy mountains (two hours from Zurich) and feels like a journey through Narnia.
