The royal yacht formerly used for state visits by Queen Elizabeth II, Britannia is now permanently anchored in Edinburgh’s Leith Docks. Since retirement the vessel now welcomes 300,000 yearly visitors. So what draws huge crowds to this prestigious vessel?
Its maiden voyage occurred in 1954, the year after the monarch’s coronation, and in the following four decades (until 1997) it clocked up over a million nautical miles, travelling the length and breadth of the world.
All Aboard
Prior to boarding the first thing that strikes any visitor is its pristine condition. The decks are obviously polished regularly. Flags catch the breeze coming in from the Firth of Forth beyond, the Union Jack, Scottish saltire and naval ensign fluttering proudly, while smaller pendants strung from bow to stern add a wonderful splash of color. Access to the ship is arranged via the visitor center in the nearby retail complex, Ocean Terminal. Included in the ticket price is an audio handset that will really make your regal surroundings come to life while you take time to explore the Britannia. The commentary is available in 27 separate languages, which is appropriate as people visit this location from every corner of the globe.
Audio Tour
The excellent aspect of being in charge of your own tour is that you never feel rushed into soaking up the atmosphere, nor are you ever caught up in human traffic jams as tourists congregate around specific areas as so often happens with official tours. It is recommended you allow yourself between 90 minutes and two hours in order to get the most out of your visit.
Part of the admission price covers refreshments in the Royal Deck Tea Room, surely one of the most illustrious dining experiences you could possibly imagine. This part of the ship has been faithfully recreated, with an awning roof and glass walls that offer splendid views in all directions. Sheltered from the elements beneath the awning, you can enjoy the finest homemade cuisine, from Ayrshire honey roasted ham and organic Grampian egg mayonnaise to tasty beers brewed in Musselburgh.
The historic splendor of the port of Leith stretches to the east, while the northern aspect reveals the Firth of Forth and the Fife mainland beyond. To the west, the horizon is dominated by the trio of bridges across the River Forth, each one a marvel of structural engineering: respectively the Rail Bridge, Forth Road Bride and the brand new Queensferry Crossing.
Closer to the yacht there is an ancient pier, and although this wooden structure is now in considerable disrepair, it dates back centuries. Invaders, from French armies to Cromwell’s troops, have disembarked at this point, preparing to lay siege to Scotland’s capital during its tumultuous past. There is little evidence of conflict in the jetty, aside from the terns who dive-bomb any cormorants or eider ducks coming too close to their roosts. The statue of the man poised at the end of the pier, staring out to see, is entitled Figure VI. This was sculpted by twice Turner Prize-winning artist Antony Gormley, although it is perhaps not quite as famous as another of his masterpieces, the Angel of the North. On the opposite side of the pier is a charming paint shed, built during World War Two, the last standing building of the shipyards once covering this entire area.
The original teak decking has been lovingly preserved from the days when the Royal Family would play games here when the Princes Charles, Andrew, Edward and Princess Anne were mere children accompanying their parents on their regal duties across the world.
Below Deck
Your tour of the ship takes you around the various decks, and then down in luxuriously appointed staterooms. The décor below decks offers a glimpse of how Queen Elizabeth and her entourage were made to feel as comfortable as possible during their numerous voyages across the high seas.
Among the items on display is a Rolls Royce Phantom that was owned by the Royal Family in the 1960s and now sits proudly within a purpose-built garage. The tour takes in five separate decks, offering a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth’s bedroom: the only bedroom of a living monarch that can be viewed by the public, albeit behind a protective glass screen.
The roll call of dignitaries in whose footsteps you are treading is impressive indeed. American presidents Dwight D Eisenhower, Gerald Ford, Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton have all enjoyed the Britannia’s hospitality. Prince Charles and his then new bride Princess Diana spent their honeymoon cruising on the yacht. Your own stay may only be for a matter of hours, but you’ll get more than a taste of the splendor that has become synonymous with the Royal Yacht Britannia.
