Sitting like a contemporary-cut diamond, the 44-room hotel, TOWER23, initially appears an anomaly in California’s laid-back, surfing type of town, Pacific Beach (known as PB to its locals). While driving to the resort along Mission Boulevard – the thoroughfare paralleling the town’s three-mile-long boardwalk lined with funky surf shops, kitschy trinket stores and casual cafes – one might think the surroundings indicate a less-than-luxurious property.
However, that indication would be wrong.
The reality is that TOWER23 serves up frills unexpected in an eclectic beach community. So, follow me for a visit to this San Diego area property.
If it were a date, the first impression would be a good one of this modern, three-story, mirror-like cube that seems to light up at dark like an on-the-beach beacon with its most dramatic feature being the Pacific Ocean.
“Welcome,” greet Michelle and Ely from the reception desk upon my arrival. With similar looks, they almost appear sisters; but though they are not related they exude a family-style hospitality as much as they display a thorough knowledge of the area. The lobby is tiny, with a lit fireplace framed by a crisp white mantel and fronted with two cream-colored leather chairs.
In route to my room, #205 (designated “Surf Pad” at its door), the path is past several oversized windows and a variety of intimate sitting areas – all comfortable, all inviting and all decorated in that fresh, clean, blue-and-white look that reflects its nearness to the sea. The décor is seaside simplicity, with unpretentious touches throughout. Additional “pads” (aka the hotel’s premium rooms) are named Spirit, Sky and Serenity.
Having derived the name TOWER23 from its location which faces the portion of the beach where lifeguard tower 23 originally stood (it’s since been relocated a short distance south) – in addition to its proximity to the iconic Crystal Pier – the setting is prime-time Pacific Beach. With the hotel entrance mere steps from the wooden staircase leading down to the sand, this geographic locale is a coveted one.
Self-described “San Diego’s only luxury lifestyle hotel on the beach,” here’s a peek into a room: white walls, walnut furnishings, Tempur-Pedic memory foam mattress with down pillow-tops, Egyptian cotton towels, comfy robes and decorative accents in various shades of ocean blues. Contents of the mini-bar echo its boutique-style fun: gummy bears, candy bars and TOWER23 logo hats. For me, the cherry atop this banana split is the private balcony, its seating for two and the view from my corner room that overlooks the pier, the ocean and all those energetic pastimes found along an active boardwalk (translation: the pinnacle of people watching). Perfectly pitched upon a bluff, my best-night’s-sleep suggestion is to leave the patio door open for the soothing sound of the surf throughout the night.
Found within the second floor’s courtyard is the hotel’s open-air spot for relaxation – the Tower Deck. Scattered with umbrellas, blue patio loungers, tables and chairs – all under the open sky with an ocean view – its highlights include a lap pool-like water feature and a glass stone enhanced fire pit, making it the unofficial setting for sunsets. This is where guests go for undisturbed sunbathing and casual congregation. The oversized numbers “23” positioned on the building’s two-story north and south walls that face the area serve as a contemporary reminder of the boutique property’s name, as well as its innate chic flair.
And for out-of-door fun extending beyond the hotel’s walls, TOWER23 enhances the guest experience by providing beach amenities such as umbrellas, chairs and towels, along with shovels and buckets for the little ones (and not-so-little ones). Additional free-of-charge perks include the use of beach cruisers, skateboards and surfboard lockers – all provided to those wanting to cruise the boardwalk and sample the waves, PB-style. The staff also assists with the arrangement of surf and boogie board rentals.
As finding spots for cars is an eternal challenge of the busy area, on-site hotel parking sweetens the deal. And with the assortment of restaurants within walking distance, it may not be necessary to move the car during the entirety of the stay.
Speaking of restaurants, TOWER23’s eatery named JRDN (pronounced “Jordan”), has established a reputation as one of the region’s top fine dining restaurants in the fresh and seasonal California food arena since the hotel’s opening in 2006. With a focus on seafood and steak – complemented by a raw bar – the open kitchen of this indoor/outdoor dining facility is headed up by executive chef Stephen Gage. The only problems the eatery creates for its diners are decisions – decisions to go with a from-the-sea route (among its selections are oysters, lobster risotto and sushi) or a meat-and-potatoes choice (options include prime rib, smoked potato puree and smoked cheddar biscuits) – all menu favorites.
Though the hotel is not large and getting lost is a non-issue, I knew I had arrived when I spotted JRDN’s dramatic “wave wall” running the restaurant’s length – a lit 70-foot-long, color changing ripple that provides a theatrical effect each evening. My recommendations are to grab a seat on the patio during the daytime and on summer nights and don’t miss the restaurant’s Sip into Summer Wine Series. Offered each Wednesday through October, it serves up the chance to sample a selection of small bites and noted wines – all while toasting the sunset (best part: parking is included).
Situated within walking distance are an assortment of casual eateries – many with million-dollar views. One popular choice, Kono’s Café, has a surfing theme with wall-mounted surfboards and artwork and is where locals line up daily for the heartiest of breakfasts. Another on-the-boardwalk spot, World Famous, is indeed “famous” for its signature Bloody Marys, fish and chips and hamburgers stacked higher than most mouths can accommodate. Stepping into the Grass Skirt takes PB visitors to Polynesia, complete with hand-crafted Tiki cocktails and an assortment of pupu platters and small plates. PB Alehouse, a two-story beachfront bar, doesn’t disappoint with its craft beers and such pub-like fare as fried pickles, Bavarian pretzels, three-cheese mac selections, an assortment of burgers and for dessert – four-layer chocolate cake and churro sundaes. To best maximize the visit, my advice is to head up the stairs to its on-the-roof deck and enjoy.
Pacific Beach is bordered by tony La Jolla to the north, informal Mission Beach to the south and downtown San Diego a few miles beyond – in other words, it’s at the intersection of the city’s urban flair and its beach communities’ nonchalant nature. But while this setting may initially seem a juxtaposition, in the end I rate it a perfect pairing.
