Indulge me. Close your eyes and “think” Austria.
Without doubt, you’ll envision Vienna – its stunning Opera House, the romance of the Danube and the majesty of the Habsburgs. A close second is surely Salzburg – identified with Mozart’s birthplace, the Sound of Music and its looming fortress.
But once you’ve departed each city’s limits, there’s more – much more. In truth, it’s Austria at its most authentic. If interested, keep reading and board a train for Alpine-style adventure (averages 4.5 hours from Vienna; 2 hours from Salzburg) to the region of Saalfelden Leogang – comprised of its two namesake towns of Saalfelden (pop. 17,000) and its smaller sister Leogang (pop. 3,200). In truth, I hadn’t heard of this Austrian area (in fact, I couldn’t even pronounce its name properly); but that soon changes.
Upon arrival, the destination is different – the air, the terrain, the vibe, everything. Situated in the Alps, it is burrowed within a valley between two physically divergent mountainous spans, one covered in rocky peaks, the other complemented by steep, grassy slopes. Though well known for its winter season and all the sports snow entails, my autumn visit reveals other offerings.
“Willkomenn!” reads signage at the entrance of Naturhotel Forsthofgut (translation: Forest Farm Estate), followed by my name and the names of the day’s additional to-be-registered guests. As lodging for the next several days, my imminent immersion into tranquility fast forwards when served heated towels from a silver tray.
Architecturally inspired by its surrounding Alps, the 105-room/250-staff-operated hotel is a five-star vacation resort (one of the area’s two such designated properties). Now in its fifth generation of the Schmuck family ownership, family member Christoph and his wife, Christina, have run the hotel since 2006. The Naturhotel Forsthofgut’s 400-year history initially began as an accommodation for forest workers, and to this day continues to celebrate its alfresco connections. “As a nature hotel, we feel uniquely united with the outdoors and value the power of nature,” acclaims the resort.
No stranger to indulgence, the hotel’s wide array of amenities is impressive. Its 61,000-square-foot, forest-themed waldSPA offers an adults-only portion (enhancements include beer and schnapps presented alongside water), as well as a family-zone. Additionally appealing to its younger guests are a mini zoo with baby alpacas and lambs and the newly-debuted horse stable and riding ring for the teen set. Continuing with lodge comforts are five saunas, three outdoor swimming pools, a lake house and organic swimming lake, a traditional Onsen hot pool inspired by traditional bathhouses of Japan and a Finnish lake sauna.
Among its four eateries are the fine dining restaurant “Echt,” which gives a maximum of eight guests the opportunity to have an intimate dining experience with Chef Michael Helfrich who is noted for his three Gault&Millau toques (think Michelin Guide and its stars); the ala carte Restaurant 1617 featuring Austrian classics; ForsthofgutCUISINE that offers three distinct menus (classic Alpine, tasty vegan and locally sourced specialties) and newest to the hotel’s culinary scene is Mizumi Lake Restaurant, dedicated to everything Japanese.
Gault&Millau has awarded the region with 14 toques spread over seven restaurants. The hotel is additionally complemented by its proximity to an impressive selection of highly acclaimed restaurants within walking distance – including GenieBerhotel Die Riederalm and its à la carte restaurant named “dahoam.” Also an award-winning Gault&Millau restaurant (three toques), it has thrived under the tutelage of owner/head chef Andreas Herbst. Noted as the youngest JRE (the prestigious recognition of Jeunes Restaurateur, a 15-country European association of youthful restaurateurs and chefs), Chef Herbst’s upscale eatery has made its mark for its ever-changing, creative menus of local delicacies with an international flair. Intimate and sophisticated, each table is fronted by dark suede booths and chairs and secluded by a curtain of rose gold chains swinging from the ceiling to the floor, with the room’s oversized window filled with a view of the Alps. The evening of food begins with a map pinpointing the locales of the night’s fare. As promoted: “It offers regional producers a spectacular stage.”
Attentive to every detail, Herbst even collaborated with a Danish artist in the design of pottery to best showcase his dishes. Most accurately described a “culinary adventure,” the meal is an event. So numerous are the offerings, I lose count at eight courses, one-beer and seven-wine pairings. And so creative is Chef – with one course hidden within a table serving piece and one presented atop a wooden toy train – his imagination is on display throughout the multi-hour meal.
Noted as Austria’s largest cycling region with 50 miles of lines and trails, visitors would be remiss not to easily explore from a bike, especially an e-bike. “They are really growing like mushrooms,” says Sabine Enzinger, founder of Elements Outdoor Sports where the bikes are rented, of the region’s ever-escalating network of bike paths. As our guide for the day’s farm-to-table biking tour, we follow Enzinger along bike lanes throughout the valley from producer to producer of the area’s numerous delicacies to enjoy the products directly from the farm. Beginning with a taste of hand-picked saffron baked into a loaf of bread, we stop at the acreage of George and Carina Wölfler. “It’s a family project and that is most important for us,” says George of the operation involving his wife, mother, uncle and more relatives.
After winding through the valley, along village backways and past fields of colorful produce, the next stop is Zieferhof. Owned by Bernhard and Lisa Perwein, the organic dairy operation whose specialties include cheese and yogurt is managed from the family’s 300-year-old farmhouse.
Though Austrians would describe the lunch stop simply “a typical mountain eatery,” it is the day’s delicious highlight. Inclusions are Alpine specialties – Pinzgauer (small cheese dumplings), Kaiserschmarrn (a sweet, fluffy dessert pancake served with plum stew or applesauce) and the refreshing accompaniment of Radler (a beer and lemonade combo).
With hiking a popular pastime and the year-round Asitz lift an approximate 200-yard walk from the hotel, additional discovery of Saalfelden Leogang should be on foot. “Hiking here is slow and steady,” announces our guide Barrie after disembarking the cable car at its top station. Greeted by goats, it is a reminder of our Austrian Alps location. Making a circular hike along Leos Game Trail to the GroBer Asitz, we revel in the stop at Cinema of Nature (known for its many panoramic plateaus) and relax in the TONspur Islands where we lay on comfy wooden loungers, chairs and hammocks, listen to music of last season’s concerts and immerse into the serenity of the setting.
There’s more. Beyond hiking and biking are the region’s traditional festivals and annual events. The 43rd Jazz Festival Saalfelden (August 17-20) is the area’s cultural flagship happening that offers innumerable concerts at a variety of venues in and around Saalfelden. Celebrated on the year’s shortest night, Summer Solstice will be recognized in 2023 on June 24 with a chain of small bonfires illuminating the mountain peaks at dark. And January 2024 will commence in style with 3 Days Jazz – its seventh annual event.
Five-star lodging, epicurean eats, world-class biking and top-of-the-world hiking – all within Austria’s Alps. While descriptions sometimes dilute the experience, it is the saying on Naturhotel Forsthofgut’s room key that best summates my sentiments of Saalfelden Leogang: “Find me at my happy place.”
