The longstanding debate continues over whether Boston already has its fair share of steakhouses. From Ruth’s Chris to The Capital Grille, all of the big name chains have made their entry here. So when we heard there was a new steakhouse opening in the South End, we had mixed emotions.
Christopher Coombs, one of the city’s youngest (and most accomplished) chefs, and owner of Deuxave and dbar, introduces Boston Chops. As soon as you step inside this recently opened urban steak bistro, you know you are in for something unique.
From the 20-foot ceilings and 2,000-bottle glass wine room to the long bar with exposed brick, it’s all about the sexy ambiance in this visually stunning dining room. Our friendly server informed us of the day’s specials—which included a striped bass served with the skin on—and suggested we get started with a selection from the raw bar. We sampled a half dozen fresh oysters and the shrimp cocktail—four enormous shrimp served with a deliciously addicting spicy horseradish sauce.
Instead of serving bread for the table, guests can sink their teeth into a baked flaky popover served with a side of creamy butter; we enjoyed ours with a 2009 bottle of Chateau Tour Salvet Bordeaux. From the homemade sides and sauces to an endless supply of frites being served throughout dinner to ensure a hot sampling, the special touches make Boston Chops so unique.
There is also a selection on the menu for the adventurous diner, which features roasted bone marrow, oxtail croquettes and brined, braised and grilled tongue. If you aren’t that daring, stick with the basics: prime grilled or roasted steak frites, braised short rib, seared scallops or rigatoni Bolognese made with beef, veal and pancetta.
We believe the best steaks here can be found on the a la carte menu. The 14-ounce New York strip was perfectly marbled and cooked to a medium rare perfection served with a rich side of chimichurri butter. The 22-ounce, wet-aged bone-in ribeye (albeit arguably one of the city’s most expensive at $58) was tender and juicy, complemented by a fiery side of creamy horseradish sauce.
Plentiful sides, large enough for sharing, include herb roasted mushrooms, duck fat fingerlings, pork belly mac and cheese, braised kale, onion rings with spicy aioli and our favorite, black and white garlic spinach gratin. We couldn’t get enough of the enormous poutine-style (think butter and cheese), twice-baked loaded potato. Simply stated, this must-have side is phenomenal.
Just when you think you can’t indulge any more, your server will tempt you with the dessert menu. Take it from us, the apple tarte Tatin with cinnamon ice cream is well worth every overindulgent calorie. Boston Chops is also serving brunch on Sundays, with an outdoor patio for al fresco dining during the warmer months. The restaurant is located at 1375 Washington Street in Boston.
