Excitement built as the helicopter approached and we tightly held our head coverings to prevent the rotor-induced downwash from whisking them away. “Here’s the deal,” we were told loudly and quickly. “Immediately upon landing, approach swiftly and along the path indicated. Don’t stop for photos and take your seat in the order designated. We’ll strap you in and off you’ll go.”
To Niagara Falls.
After waking in Canada’s most populous city, Toronto, a mere one-hour-and-a-half drive away was the world’s largest waterfall by volume (factoid: more than six million cubic feet of water cascade over Canada’s Horseshoe Falls every minute). Offering three ways to experience this Mother Earth marvel – from a boat along the Niagara River to the edge of its splashdown, through tunnels beneath it to platforms under and next to the edge of the falls and in a helicopter above it – this day trip served up the natural phenom from two of those perspectives.
In addition to the ten-minute flight over Niagara, exploring from beneath the waterfall (125 feet down by elevator) via “Journey Behind the Falls” gave a behind-the-scenes peek of the engineering feat, and next-to-the-falls views from two observation decks, complete with the accompanying spray only this proximity could create (complimentary rain coverings were included). As if marking the day with an exclamation point, a rainbow appeared. And, yes, the experience from the Canadian side of Niagara Falls is better than from America’s perch.
HOME, SWEET HOME
Flashback to my initial greeting. “Welcome to Shangri-La Toronto,” said the dapper doorman upon my arrival when ushered into the hotel’s old-fashioned kind of lobby – people mingling and conversing amid a variety of comfy seating configurations and a beckoning background of music. In two words, it was “a happening.”
While ensconced within a skyscraper surrounded by the bustle of a North American megacity, once in my room, tranquility ensued and the reception’s lavish theme continued – from an ornate porcelain tea set with a note to call for hot water when ready to experience the tradition to the automated shades that revealed or blacked out (my choice) the suite’s above-the-city views.
Its signature restaurant, bosk, carried through the hotel’s commitment to the cultivation of togetherness and appetizingly melded the flavors of Northern Italy with regional Canadian foods – including the hotel’s own beehive on the third level’s Garden Terrace. Let’s just say that during the five-course dinner Chef de Cuisine Troy Cabarios had me at: “A few more shaved truffles with your Culurgiones al Tartufo?”
MICHELIN AND MORE
Upon deeper exploration of the city’s cuisine, a common thread emerged – MICHELIN-recognized and Top Chef-affiliated. So, follow me along the impressive and delicious path I trekked, complete with a few suggestions.
Though situated smack dab in the middle of downtown Toronto, Richmond Station projected the ambiance of a neighborhood restaurant that began with casual “hellos” from the staff upon arrival. Co-owned by Carl Heinrich, Top Chef Canada winner, his two-fold commitment to both fairness to his staff and freshness in his foods set him apart from most high-profile culinary artists. While the kitchen team releases a new tasting menu inspired by local and seasonal products every two weeks, don’t miss the pumpkin mac and cheese, Station burger and smoked salmon rillettes, if featured.
MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Restaurant Conejo Negro was Caribbean, Creole and Latin inspired. Giving a laid-back island vibe within a cosmopolitan landscape, a simple walk through the restaurant to the back patio transported me to Jamaica. Described “a fusion of cultures and flavors,” this eatery’s unique blending of spices and premier ingredients produced such standouts as Brazilian cheese puffs, jerk chicken, squash dumplings and macaroni pie, along with my choice of its innovative cocktails, spicy pineapple margarita.
It was worth the trip from downtown to the east end of the city, specifically Leslieville, for Maha’s Egyptian Brunch. A MICHELIN Recommended Restaurant run by Head Chef Maha Barsoom (think Meryl Streep with an Egyptian flair), Chef (and daughter) Monika Wahb, also a Top Chef Canada contestant and Barista (and son) Mark Wahba – it was a true family affair. Always an outdoor queue for this breakfast/lunch eatery, it was worth the wait to enter the cozy cafe for this experience that replicated a homey, in-country visit to Cairo. Each of the Egyptian dishes – all comprised of sweet spices, different flavors and made from scratch – came with verbal directives of how to best enjoy. I followed Maha’s suggestions: Cairo Classic (a traditional Egyptian breakfast combo) and from the exotic coffee menu, its signature latte, honey cardamom – touted as the restaurant’s most popular beverage.
Conceived to be “a celebration of regional ingredients” was Chef Michael Hunter’s Antler Kitchen & Bar. Dubbed the “Hunter Chef” – with such Facebook descriptors as chef, hunter, forager – the multi-faceted chef’s menu showcased foraged local, seasonal and wild foods. Located in a petite space with exposed brick and an intimate tone, it almost felt a secret. Not so secret, however, was the quality of such not-to-be-missed offerings as Antler’s house-made charcuterie, Quebec foie gras, wild boar cavatelli and Alberta bison rib eye. And for dessert: Ontario peach and semolina cake.
Back to Niagara, specifically the Niagara Wine Region – an area long known for its dedication to the farm-to-table movement – was Trius Winery Restaurant. Under the tutelage of Executive Chef Frank Dodd, it was recently recognized as a 2024 MICHELIN Guide recommended restaurant for its inspired wine country cuisine. Trius, a Niagara winemaking pioneer, explained its goal – “Our wines and menus are inspired by the seasonal evolution of the vines that surround us and the local produce that grows beside them.” Note to diners: Don’t neglect to partake of the fresh-from-the-oven bread served with red wine butter, the potato and parmesan gnocchi that equated to “pillows from heaven” and, for dessert, pumpkin bread with dark chocolate – the perfect match for a finishing glass of red.
FARM FRESH
But where did these exceptional eateries source their ingredients, I wondered? A two-hour drive northwest of Toronto past acres of open land and fields of pasture animals to the small Ontario village of Creemore revealed The New Farm, a regenerative, certified organic family farm. Consisting of 100 acres, it produced the highest quality of vegetables, cattle, pigs and chickens. And it was home to Richmond Station’s one-acre plot of the freshest of produce – between 40 and 60 crops each year.
In contrast, within Toronto proper was Flemingdon Park Urban Farm (affectionately called Flemo Farm), a one-half acre community-developed urban plot of land dedicated to growing fresh vegetables for its neighborhood residents and managed by a collection of volunteer gardeners like Said, who eagerly shared the rewards of his efforts.
Having opened in 1970 and since been operated by three generations of the Albanian Pristine family, the Cheese Boutique has since grown to an operation renowned for its around-the-world high-quality offerings – butcher shop, fresh produce, made-in-house salads, chocolate delectables, coffee offerings, bakery goods and more, plus a $2 million-plus cheese and meat cellar.
THE TASTY TRUTH
More than a Toronto trend, farm to fork almost seemed a luxuriant expectation – understandable when flying above Niagara Falls opened my day and dining with MICHELIN closed it.
For more, go to www.destinationtoronto.com.
