On approach to pocket-sized Rogue Valley International Medford airport, the view from above set the stage for what was to come – ribbons of rivers, miles of fertile valleys and a melody of mountains – all beneath sun-kissed skies. With such a rich bounty of Mother Nature’s attributes, my visit unveiled Medford, a destination defined by a surrounding travel trifecta – energizing explorations, cultural outings and a “farm-to-table” F&B scene established long before the term became an overused descriptive.
The Rogue’s Routes
“We like to say we’re only 30 minutes from tarmac to tasting,” said my local host as we ventured to our first stop – a winery. Thus, my initial introduction to the Rogue Valley. As Oregon’s southernmost wine region, it was home to over 5,000 acres of vineyards, growing more than 70 varietals, with 85 tasting rooms and four distinct wine trails. Composed of three individual valleys, a surrounding trio of intersecting mountain ranges and the subsequent span of elevations and soil classifications that come with such a divergent typography – when paired with warm days and cool nights, the payoff proved significant in the winemaking world. To be specific: a vinicultural paradise.
For a complete overview, I visited multiple wineries and tasting rooms along the Rogue’s four wine trails (I’ll never be accused of incomplete research). Designated a special wine appellation and consisting of 18 wineries, Applegate Valley AVA (American Viticulture Area) stretched along 50 miles of the Applegate River. The terroir-driven boutique winery, Red Lily Vineyards, set a high bar with its Spanish-inspired wines and addictive setting next to the river, complete with visual splashes of red – including outdoor umbrellas and notable reds (wine, that is).
Tip: When available, order the Pink Lemonade Verdejo Slushy.
The Jacksonville Wine Route spread from its eponymous core, the back-in-the-day 1850s Gold Rush-boom town, now a National Historic Landmark. With 100 historic buildings dotting Jacksonville’s noted California Street, it would be a mistake to not explore this treasured township known for Victorian vibes and pioneering spirit.
Sitting on 27 acres of a multi-generational family farm was Dos Mariposas Vineyard & Lavender Farm. Proclaiming itself “dog friendly for friendly dogs,” additional appeals included a 2.000-plant lavender field, hard ciders from the farm’s 150 fruit trees and a tasting-room-fronted patio overlooking a pond teeming with wildlife.
Located one-half mile from downtown Jacksonville was Rellik Winery. Defined by its modern farmhouse-style tasting room, a patio blanketed with intertwining grapevines, a selection of homemade gourmet pizzas and wine, of course, it was decidedly low-key.
Tip: Look for the family alpacas.
The Bear Creek Wine Trail included those wineries in the southern part of the region. The name, DANCIN Vineyards, an acronym of the owners’ names Dan and Cindy, represented an evening of wine tasting at its best – sitting on a terrace overlooking acres of sloping vineyards, sharing a selection of regionally-grown foods and sipping an estate-produced pinot noir (one of the most popular varietals).
Along the Upper Rogue Trail was Southern Oregon’s largest vineyard, 300-acre Del Rio Vineyards. Operated by fifth generation farmers and situated on the banks of the Rogue River at the historic site of the Rock Point Stage Hotel (est. 1864), it proved the picture-book spot for a Rogue Valley inspired picnic lunch, accompanied by a glass of their rosé (created from grenache).
A bit off the trails but appetizingly situated in Central Point within the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor was the tasting room of Ryan Rose, a venerated limited release winery. The business model of owner/winemaker, Rob Folin, was simple: “I make the wines I like to drink.” His artisanal neighbors included Rogue Creamery (its slogan: “from moo to you”), home to the Rogue River Blue, designated “World’s Best Cheese 2019;” Coquette Bakery and its European-inspired creations and Lillie Belle Farms, known for handcrafted truffles and chocolates.
Tip: Rogue Valley’s wine tastings are a fraction of other wine regions’ price tags. And remember, no state sales tax.
Medford’s Menus
Pomadori Osteria and Bar served upscale cuisine. Situated in Medford’s four-square-block downtown within a historic building, complete with rustic brick walls and vintage architectural details, the restaurant showcased Italian fare with a contemporary twist. And found in another structure from the past was Jacksonville Inn Restaurant, a premium eatery that was as charming as it was delectable.
Among my top on-the-go picks was Buttercloud Bakery & Café and its hearty, from-scratch offerings. Personal favs: signature biscuit sandwich and French toast (made with the signature biscuits). Ruby’s was known for its killer breakfast burritos and offered a menu inspired by locally-sourced organic products, including coffee from a regional small batch roaster.
And for a real hands-on approach, there was the seasonal Thursday morning Rogue Valley Growers & Crafters Market. Representing 150-plus local growers, crafters and artisan food makers, its designation was impressive – one of nation’s 10 best farmers’ markets.
Not to be forgotten was Harry & David’s internationally-recognized flagship store, the renowned quality-driven gourmet food store, which was founded 110 years ago in Medford.
Plein Air Picks
Among this wine region’s “adventurous outdoorsy diversions” were choices – whether it be scenic nature walks or hardcore hikes, soft adventures or thrilling expeditions.
Our selection: a scenic river trip with Rogue Rafting Company. Best described “mile after mile of gentle prettiness,” our professionally-guided, three-hour trip along this seven-mile stretch made us feel the waterway was ours, exclusively ours. Commandered by Ben Bansen, the experience was nothing flashy, just natural and unassuming with along-the-way sightings of osprey or wood ducks or herons and punctuated by the occasional adrenalin-inducing necessity to navigate whitewater.
Formed nearly 8,000 years ago by the fall of a volcano, Crater Lake, Oregon’s only national park, was 65 miles from Medford. Characterized by superlatives – the nation’s bluest, deepest (1,943 feet) and purest lake – it was open year-round – and it qualified as a must-see. However, with eternally unpredictable weather and some roads closed seasonally (note: only the south entrance is plowed to the rim in winter), the result can transform a planned visit to simply “a plan.” Though my outing was in June, when in route to the rim, we passed such signage as “Snow Plow” and “Turn Around.” So, regardless of the time of year, check the weather, dress in comfortable layers and with good footwear.
Tip: Add a stop at Prospect State Scenic Viewpoint. It’s picnic-perfect and enhanced by towering trees, a nature trail, and several waterfalls.
Curtain Call
In addition to the internationally recognized Oregon Shakespeare Festival 20 minutes away in Ashland, I discovered the Britt and Music Arts Festival, an annual June-through-September event. Presented in an outdoor musical venue located in downtown Jacksonville – it was under stars with flawless natural acoustics thanks to the adjacent hillside. Here, and on stages throughout the small town, music lovers enjoyed all genres – from classical and jazz to pop and rock.
Base Camp Bonanza
Here’s the deal. Featuring more than 200 days of annual sunshine, such majestic surroundings as Table Rocks and snow-capped Mount McLoughlin and a combo of both down-home charm and an inviting peek into Rogue’s world of wines, Medford served up much more than my first-impression aerial view.
For more, go to www.travelmedford.org.
