Whose house were we in? Inside Erdem’s A/W 15 show venue, Erdem Moralioğlu transported the audience back into the ‘70s. Guests shuffled onto an elaborate set, transformed to resemble a retro apartment, filled to the brim with wicker furniture, shaggy rugs, velvet throws and patterned wallpaper. Plenty of large lamps sat on small, low-rise round tables, creating a vibe that evoked a sense of faded grandeur.
Known for his use of vibrant prints, the collection opened with a pink, antique-looking, floral, knee-length dress in opulent silk that had the appearance of sewed-up upholstery. It shouldn’t work, but it did. Pairing the vintage creations with sturdy, knee-length leather boots, he gave the collection a modern twist. The look evoked a sense of a girl who has delved into her grandmother’s wardrobe—but has updated it to suit today’s modern culture.
Erdem’s AW15 collection had a nostalgic feeling of clothes being handed down from generation to generation—hems were frayed and the once bright colors were slightly faded. Whilst most designers stress to get rid of the tiniest of stray strands, Erdem embraced these imperfections with open arms. Frayed-edged tweed coats (almost reminiscent of Chanel’s own signature jackets) and stunning lace dresses had their unraveled threads trailing down the catwalk and, rather than looking unkempt, gave the pieces a fascinating and unique texture. A particularly notable piece was a multicolored jacket that looked like it was made up entirely of feathery flyaway strings making it a showstopper that was hard to ignore.
Giving the collection a romantic feeling, brocade was a running theme on the Erdem runway and successfully showcased his flair for the extravagant. His use of vibrant prints in metallic green and pink floral patterns reigned supreme. The elegant floral and brocade was nicely contrasted to some of the collections more modern pieces. He used two on-trend fabrics, leopard print and shearling, to create two cozy-looking, modern coats which gave the antiqued collection some diversity; two skin-tight, laser-cut, leather dresses in lilac and black gave the collection a sensual, seductive vibe.
Two of the most stand-out pieces were two long, button down wool coats that faded into a glittering ombré effect at the bottom, as the solid-colored top-half faded into a shimmery explosion of shades, to make for a magical and hypnotic effect. There was an almost cosmic edge to these two stunning pieces.
Erdem’s AW15 collection is only for the brave. Not shying away from colors, the palette was full of metallic pinks, purple and green—guaranteed to make the wearer the center of attention. Known for his use of bold prints and experimental textiles, his detailed craftsmanship is what has made him unique in the fashion scene. Mixing the delicate with the bold, Erdem’s latest line is feminine and nostalgic, but also makes sure to remain in the 21st century, making the collection utterly versatile and desirable.
