Soho is renowned for its wild, debauched ways, while Alexis Gauthier, former chef at Roussillon in Pimlico, is known for his delicate style with fine French cuisine. This pairing, in a beautiful townhouse on Romilly Street, inches from the centre of Soho’s frenzy, shouldn’t work; but Gauthier Soho, despite the implied contradiction in its name, does work, and on many levels.