Since Proenza Shouler has basically been ahead of the game this whole time (take a look back at their RTW Fall 2012 collection for the current black and white trend), it makes sense that they want to shake things up a bit. The collection shown today during New York Fashion Week showcased pieces almost entirely in metallic, black, nude and tan—a very different color palette than we’re used to seeing from the two designers. The shapes and cuts, though high fashion, didn’t make for very flattering or wearable pieces, but that seems less noteworthy when considering every design looked so fresh and new.
The collection was split between very boxy loose shapes, where the figures of models seemed lost in an endless void of fabric, or tight plunging necklines that no woman who wasn’t an exhibitionist would wear outside. And though I’m not one for barely-there tops, these jackets were extraordinarily flattering, bare to the sternum, nipped at the waist and flared at the hips, to give even pin-thin models feminine curves.
The loose pieces are big and hold vague similarities to a potato sack, so that they leave much to be desired. There is no movement, no form; heavy fabrics seemed to weigh the models down and the attention to detail and femininity that Proenza Schouler is so known for seemed lost.
The coats, however, are exquisite sculptures of form and tailoring, and so transformative that one off-white coat is all you would need to make every piece in your closet seem new again. Simple pocket detailing, traditional metals, and neutral colors give this outerwear longevity that could easily last until the next decade (longer if you hang on to it—styles are always coming back around.)
Easily the best thing about this collection was the lack of heavy trends—gone were the cutouts, the lace, the florals, or the ever-persistent, yet unflattering and conspicuous back zipper. As a whole the line is distinct and modern—and with their trend-setting track record I’m sure we’ll see more of these looks next year.